Morbier, or more beer

Okay, so that’s not greatest beer-cheese-pairing pun but there’s definitely something about pairing a Morbier- style cheese with that classic of Trappist ales, the Dubbel – a beer which exudes more of those bakery aromas of raisin, clove, caramel and toast.  And it’s that ‘more’ which can match up to the powerful character of an artisan produced Morbier-style cheese. 

So, cards on the table, skip the commercially produced Morbier!  My choice has to be artisan produced, hand-selected and matured by one of the great affineurs.  But if like me, you can’t just wander over to Bordeaux and visit Jean d’Alos, then look no further than King Stone Dairy at Manor Farm Chedworth for the British take on Morbier cheese.  Ashcombe (by David Jowett of Rollright fame) was the 2021 Supreme Champion cheese at the Artisan Cheese Awards.  Rind washed, it contains the all-important aesthetic ribbon of ash running through the centre, is buttery, rich, and boasts a satisfying aroma of fresh hazelnuts. Invented during lockdown Ashcombe also won the titles of best English Cheese, Best New Cheese, Best Farmhouse Cheese and Best Washed Rind Cheese. 

The initial malty sweetness of a Belgium Dubbel, followed by a crisp and dry finish, makes the Dubbel a perfect partner for the rind-washed and nutty Ashcombe.  More pungent and the pairing wouldn’t work, so forget Durrus and Stinking Bishop, but here flavours align well with a malty Dubbel. 

Chimay Brune/ Bruin (the red one!) is a 7% ABV timeless pairing – bottle conditioned, it gives off a light, fruity apricot aroma with a mouthfeel that balances a slight bitterness with caramel and malt.  Rated 99 for style and 97 overall on Rate Beer this is in the World Top 10 of Dubbel beers.

St Bernardus Prior 8  is slightly stronger at 8% ABV but represents another classic pairing with Ashcombe.  It has a malt fruit complexity that finds the perfect balance between sweet, bitter and malty tastes.  Unsurprisingly, the recipe comes from the Trappist monks of Westvleteren – but that’s another story.  Its rated 100 for style and 99 overall on Rate Beer, and like Chimay Brune it is also in the World Top 10 of Dubbel beers – in fact it comes in at number 2.

So just as the weather is turning decidedly colder later this week, and I’m putting the Helles lagers to one side, this is a great opportunity to re-visit Dubbel beer with British made Morbier-style cheese.